Garment yoke



Nov. l, 1927.

' E. l.. WILLIAMS 1647423 GARMENT YOKE Filed Oct. 9, 1924 INVLN TOR. v

dwarf? of. di/fianza BY l i 06f/L). r

ATTORNEY ;v edge of the yoke. taut .across the body ofther` of the garment `so as'to .providea wearer Patented Nov. '1, 1927.

- u Ni'rsD STATES EDWARD L. WILLIAMS, or LAKEwoononio, YAssicinon To THE WALTERA. ('i'oLii-l V SMITHV COMPANY, CLEVELAND, OHIO, A CORPORATION y0F GARMENT Yoxn.

v -fApp'lication led October 9, i924. Serial SNcj.` 742,537.

has; beenfindicated, this invention relates .to an improved garment yoke. More particularly it .comprises .a yoke especially` adapted for a costumeslip, embodying with the marginal portions positioned beneath the larm Vof the wearer a concealed band of elas-r 'cent material into a closely shirred eifect and draw the remainder of the upper smooth ungathered.edgeat such` intermediaterv places at'the y'front andbackof ythe 25. practice wearer.- It further contemplates the/provision of street l,dress and which -may y'be disposed belowtlie upper edgeof said cosgowns forvmore formal wear.

l 4ln many of the costume .slips worn by difficulty A I upper edge wearer at all times. f It ,has been the'usual to have a draw-string concealed has beenexperienced in having the Within a ment and when this is adjusted tothe lright tension Vabout the body,r of the wearer the gathers formedr in the upper portion of the ".garment'are distributed so as to prevent an f tionis to provid accumulation'of material at any one point. It hasbeen'found, however, that such initial Vdistribution of theV material vcannot be maintained for any considerable time, and the result is that such gathers tend to move to one sideV or the'other and usually form a bulgewhich distorts the shape of the outer garment and at the same time is uncomfortable for the wearer.

The principal'object of the present invene a garment of the type referred to which will be free of the objectionablv featuresjust described and which may be worn with a high degree of comfort andra feeling of security inv so far as the y eect of 'such under garment upon the Vsmooth set -of the outer garment is concerned'.y

A further object of the invention is to provide a garment of the type described which may be satisfactorily used for both dayl and evening wear, inasmuch as it permits the disposal of the usual straps,which normally extend over the shoulders, withinthe upper edge. of thel garment and provides .a suffi- A a garment fof `this type having shoulf y. der straps which may be fworn in place withl morning Jor women with modern typesfof costumes', soinev fitsmoo'thly tothe p'gure of the.

hein at the upper edge of the `gar-- ygoing andl related ends, thesaidinventioin.

then, consists'fof the means hereinafterfully described and particularly pointed out intheclaims. y f fj; .y f

The annexeddr'awingand the following description set forth inl detfailonefinethod. and o ne product exemplifying invention," such disclosed procedure and product con# stituting, 'however, but one offvariou's v.appli-Y cations o-f the principle/of my invention.

ln said :annexed drawing :-'v 'i section of a `gari'fiieiit embodying my inven-f tion; Fig-'2 is a planview of'a backsection j adapted vto forma complete-garment withI vthe section shown in'Fig. l, Fig. 3 is a partial front .elevation showing the'. completed :4: isa detail sectional view` garment; `Fi

d portion of the garment taken ofy the shirre valong the line 'shownfin- Fig. '3, look? ing in the direction of the arrows; F 5v is a detail sectional view taken alongtlie line 5--5l sho-wn in Fig. 3, Fig. 6 is annent i larged detail yview showing the s'hi'rredjpor' tien of .the upper edge of the garment;v and Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic View showing one of the side pleats of thel garment.'

.The garment ycomprises two sections/l front section l anda back Sectional.. The

lower portion Stof the vfrontV sectioniisfof larger area than the upper portion 4L thereof,

both in width land length. As shown in Fig. 1, the lowery -land upper sections are of rectangular outline but thefup'per section is of approximately t-wo-thiids'the widthv and f heightvof'the lower'section.` At the/,meeting line of the upper and lower'sections a trans- V versev cut 5 is extended inwardly from either side a distance approxi-mately equal to the extension of said lower vsection beyond the side edge ofthe upper section.l This cut permits the outer edgeI 6 of the lower section to be sewed to the' adjacent'edge 7 of the back section of thefgarment, in alignv ment` with the adjacent side edge 8' of the upper; portion of the front section. The fullness of the garment is ordinarily taken up with one'oi more pleats 9 yand this 'conthe garment'at thehips "of the wearer. Y,

jAcross the upper edv'geof the fronti section v struction provides for :adequate fullness. of y' ,.v ..1 i I vFig. Vl yisa plan View showing the "front i Vbelow the lower edge of the elastic.

of the garmet a hem is formedand adjacent each sideedge thereof a stripof elastic is in the material at points spaced from eachV of the side edges, said scores extending a short distance into the body ofthe garment, in order that the sewing of the elastic may be quickly land accurately accomplished without encroaching upon the central space of the garment. The insertion of the elastic in the marginal portions'of the, upper edge of the front section is preferably completed before the central portion of the hem is made. '.Said hem thusiis'formed in .three sections across the upper., edge of the Vfront Section of the' garment instead of formed in a` single operation as inthe making of a garment wherein a draw-string is to bel inserted at the upper edge. fterfthecompletion of the hem 11 across the central portion ofthe front sectionk of the garment and the forming of a hem`14 across the top edge of the back section ofthe garment, the front and back portions of the garment are brought together and theirvsideedges are a point adjacent the inner ends of the inserted elastic oneend of a shoulderstrap 15 v is secured, the opposite end being preferably connected with the back section of the garment at a point spaced a suitable' distance from the side seam thereof.

."he cuts or scores 13 formed acrossthe upper portion of the front section are stitched together as soon as the elastic has been inserted within the respective side h'ems. This operation serves to slightlyreduce the Vfullness of the material at the points where said seams are located;

The elastic is preferably sewed into the garment while the hem 'is' being formed. This operation is most rapidly `carried' out by means of a machine forming a plurality of rows ofstitches. As illustrated in 3, three rows ofstitches are disclosed., the two upperrows 16, 17, passingth'rough the elastic and the lower row 18 forn'iing the bottonimargin of the hem and being spaced I The elastic is sewed intothe hem'with'the cloth pulled smooth andthe elastic strip under tension and as soon as the hem is completed the tension on the elastic is released and the upper edge of the-garment enclosing the elastic is drawn into a series of evenly space l gathers 19 (as is shown in Fig. 'The size of the gathers formed is, controlled by the size' of the individual stitches which pass through the material of the folded upper.

edge and the tension upon the elastic when they are being formed. The upper edge at the points where the elasticj has been inserted will present a closely shirred effect which will not be a discomfort to the wearer of the garment. Thus there has been provided a garmenthaving a smooth form fitting upper edge wholly free from objectionable gathers across the front and back and thus .provides for the perfect lit and smoothness of appearance of the outer garments.

Other formsmay :be employed embodying the features of my invention instead of the one here explained,^change,being made in the form or construction provided' the elements stated by any of the following claims or the equivalent of such stated elements be employed', whether produced by my preferred method or by others 'embodying steps equivalent to those stated in the following` claims.

l thereforeparticularly point out and dis- Y Y tinctly claim as my invention 85 1. A yoke for a garment having a front 1' l and back section with the side edges stitch-edv together, a hem formed 'entirely' across the upper edge' ofthe kback section, a hem sectionenclosing an `elastic strip formed into gathers at the top 'edge of the front section adjacent each side thereof yterminating at downwardly extending scores provided to permit insertion of said strips and then stitched to remove fullness in the upper por 95 tionr ofsaid garment, anda smooth, straight henrof even depth therewith interposed between said Gathered sections of hem.

2. A costume slip having a front section formed of a lower portion'of larger area and 100 an upper portion of smaller area eachof substantially rectangular outlineand having transverse cuts extendingf inwardly from either side at the meeting point of said portions a distance approximately equal to the.105 extension of the 'lower portion beyond the side edge of the Lipper portion, and said slip having a'bacli section of substantially rectangular outline, said front and back sec- Y tions Vof the "slip 'having their side edges 1(10 stitched together in true alignment, the fullness of the lower portion of the front section being taken up with a plurality of pleats, a hem vformed entirely across the upper edge Y of the baclr section, a hem'section enclosing 116 an elastic stripI formedinto gathers at the top edge of the front section adjacent each side thereof terminating at downwardly eX- tending scores provided t-o permit the inseri tion vof'said strips and then stitched to re-` 120 move the fullness in the upper portion of said garment, anda smooth straight hem of even depth therewith interposed between said gathered hem sections.

3. rlhefmethod of making a yoke for a garment having a front and' back section which comprisesV forming a hem at the upper edgeof the back section, providing a pair ofscores extending downwardly Vfrom the upper edge of the front section parallel to the side edges and in spaced relation thereto, forming herns adjacent each of said side edges by turning the material thereof downwardly over a strip of elastic material, sewing said elastic material under tension into said turned-over material, forming a smooth, ungatheredl hem across the intermediate portion on the top edge of the front y section oi'said garment, and sewing together the edges of said scores and the side seams of said garment.

4. The method of makinga yoke for a garment having al front and back section which comprises forming a hem at the upper edge of the back section, providing a pair of scores extending downwardly from the upperedge of the front section parallel yto i ment.

wardly over a strip of elastic material,` sewing said elastic Ymaterial under tension to each side of said turned-over material and l simultaneously forming the marginal stitch of the hem adjacent to but spaced from vsaid elastic material, forming a smooth, ungatll-l ered hem across the intermediate portion of the top edge of the Jirontk section of said garment, and sewing together the edgesof said Vscores and the side seams of said ga-rj Signed by vme, this l27th day of September, 1924:.

EDWARD L. IWILLIAMs, f 

